Girard-Perregaux is a manufacture with an expansive and respectable history that spans 222 years and counting. The Tourbillon Bi-Axial Tantalum and Sapphire Limited Edition watch is a beautiful addition to the Tourbillon Bi-Axial collection, which in our opinion is one of the most interesting and under-appreciated highly complex watch. This one comes in a solid tantalum case with dial bridges in black sapphire. To some it is boring, to others it is sci-fi. Our Editor-in-Chief Ariel Adams puts one on the wrist, so let's check it out.
ABTW: Did you ever get it?
If there are chronographs and there are Chronographs, the SpidoSpeed is certainly the latter. Boasting a 44mm wide 32-piece skeleton case, the SpidoSpeed is a distinctive interpretation of the modern sport watch that is unlike anything else on the market. The SpidoSpeed runs on the LW 03 automatic movement which is sourced from Concepto and then been decorated by Linde Werdelin. The SpidoSpeed Steel is certainly not cheap but it does stand out for its futuristic design, unique appeal and proven attention to detail. Price is ,000. lindewerdelin.com
OI: Good question. Yes I already have an idea about a mechanism where I found a A.Manzoni & Fils patent, dating back to 1892. It has to do with a repetition mechanism, but I do not want to reveal much more just yet. And of course we want to redo table clocks with the 8 day power reserve mechanism that I discovered….
It wasn't difficult to predict that Cartier would build upon the Calibre watch with new models and features over the years. In fact, the Calibre case is used in many of their much higher-end pieces as well. Though those models are distinct from the basic Calibre models because they target vastly different price demographics. This Cartier Calibre Chronograph is the second version of the "mainstream luxury" Calibre watch collection. The case design is unchanged from the original save for the addition of the chronograph pushers.
Ideally in the future, Omega will develop some new case designs for a revival of the Railmaster which was their original "engineer's watch." The Aqua Terra is mostly a dress watch in the Seamaster family and I think a new (another new that is) Railmaster might be a good piece to give Omega a cool antimagnetic "thinking man's watch" that goes head to head with direct competition from Rolex, IWC, and others. omegawatches.com
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Ball’s Engineer Hydrocarbon watches are arguably their most recognizable, thanks to the prominent and unique crown guard. Earlier, we showed you the Engineer Hydrocarbon Airborne and this time round, we are looking at its DLC sibling, the Engineer Hydrocarbon Black. With a black DLC case, this new watch is perhaps Ball’s most stealthy one yet and the ETA 2892-2 movement within also features the brand’s new SpringLock shock protection system.
This is the UTTE watch by Arnold & Son, and apparently it is the world's thinnest tourbillon. The trend of watches getting ever chunkier year after year seems to live on without disturbance - but the race for the ultimate in finesse and subtle elegance can be just as stirring as well and the manufacture of Arnold & Son is here to prove that point by releasing something to excite those who admire such fine treats of horology. With their double-balance and earlier on with the inside-out watches they made it pretty clear that they are everything but shy when it comes to reaching beyond the strict frontiers of fine watch making. Now, however, they have ventured onto violent waters, proudly possessed by one of the ultra-thin greats: Piaget.
When the original Bell & Ross BR01 watch collection debuted about a decade ago, it was a sort of manly dress watch and there was nothing like this BR01-93 GMT model. There were a few versions, but many of them focused on the piece's inherent luxury status and ability to not look like "just" a 46mm wide wrist instrument. As the collection evolved, Bell & Ross increasingly turned the BR01 into just that - a military-inspired instrument-style wrist watch without too much polish, and lots of matte surfaces. There are exceptions of course, but from a sales perspective I think that is what ended up being best for the line.
1. With in-house caliber (IHC) I expect fit, finish, attention to details, accuracy, or technology not found elsewhere. All true qualities on a NOMOS but rarely on repackaged ETAs. Some re-branded ETA are not just repackaged (i.e., IWC) but that's the exception rather than the norm.
De Bethune creates some of the most unique looking and distinctive watches on the market today. With a stellar aesthetic and standout case design, the new Skybridge is an interesting addition to their DB28 range of watches. The DB28 Skybridge employs the same skeletonized floating lugs and twelve o'clock crown placement seen on other models in the DB28 family, but offers a less complicated dial arrangement with an artful interpretation of the De Bethune design language.
With any extremely limited edition, such as this ZCRC3, talk of pricing is a fairly moot point - the watch is going to be scarce, and pricing will be set accordingly. We can, however, talk about the base model this watch came from, which is in the low to mid four figure range. The base model is also a much more refined (in appearance) watch, with dressier tones and finishes. If anything, this LE may point to some sportier models that could be realized.
The main feature of the watch is the 1/10th of a second chronograph which comes from the TAG Heuer Caliber 36 movement. It is a modified version of the famous Zenith El Primero movement that runs at 36,000 bph - giving it the ability to measure these smaller intervals.
How time flies, it's the end of yet another month and time for yet another installment of our bi-weekly roundup of the best watch articles from here and around the internet.
While Memorigin is based in Hong Kong, not much is actually produced in Hong Kong anymore. Production is nearby in China, where the caliber MO 0707 manually wound tourbillon movement is produced. The movement is engraved as skeletonized for decorative purposes. It operates at 28,800 vph and has a power reserve of about 40 hours. You should also note that this is a flying tourbillon (which means it has no top bridge). From a chronometric standpoint we haven't done any timing tests, but we figure it is probably just a bit less accurate than most Swiss tourbillons.
The front sapphire crystal of the watch is no longer smoked and offers a clearer view of the gears, that have now been "circus colored" in blue and orange. Cheeky! Also, the Only Watch auction is about supporting children, which ties into the fun gaming theme of the piece. Children who love 0,000 watches that is. On the sides of the watch are two metal cages with a ball that moves up and down (magnetically) along a lume painted strip to indicate the hours (on the left) and the minutes (on the right). The balls can be jerked free, only to reattach to their magnetic points. The original X-Trem-1 watches contained the balls in small sapphire tubes. Creating a magnetic environment that did not affect the movement itself was challenging for sure.
The El Primero Rainbow was a rather popular sport watch at the time of its debut and included the in-house made El Primero 405Z automatic chronograph movement with a flyback mechanism. Apparently Zenith produced this movement specially for the Rainbow collection, which added a flyback complication to the 405. Today the same movement is used in a lot of Zenith watches, and found its way into the 2010 Defy Rainbow, as well as the Stratos Rainbow of today (though it just says 405) on the movement.
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