In terms of the movements themselves it is difficult to ascertain exactly who produces them. The mechanical movements inside of Niall One watches are said to be either ETA 2824-2 automatics or the virtual close, a Sellita SW200. Sellita is the biggest producer of ETA clones right now, but the Niall map says they are from Solothurn, Switzerland. I don't know what movement manufacturers are located in this region, but it is likely one of the new ones that came about in hopes to help fill the ETA void, given ETA's vast reduction in supplying groups outside the Swatch Group with movements. My guess is that the movements are technically "Swiss Made" but feature a mixture of parts made in both Switzerland and Asia. The movements offer pretty much no decoration, which is going to go against Niall's intended price point.
2. Panerai Radiomir 1940 3 Days Automatic PAM572 Watch And New In-House P.4000 Movement Hands-On
At an MSRP of 0, the Citizen Promaster Aqualand Depth Meter is a bargain for what it provides, and when one compares it with the other similarly featured-watches in this category. While I would have a hard time wearing this watch day-to-day, due to it's imposing, yet wearable, stature, it felt great on the dive boat and during post-dive activities. The extremely legible dial and instrument look, make it blend perfectly with my other dive equipment. citizenwatch.com
Therefore, if you are the owner or employee of a watch company, and are involved in the launch of a new product, be mindful of the definitions laid forth in this article. If you are found to be using misleading terms to describe the origin of your movements, you will not be able to claim ignorance of what "in-house" means, since we have given you rather simple guidelines. Do you work with outside suppliers? That's fine. Celebrate the quality partners you work with, and make it clear that, as a company, you are interested in getting the best components from the best suppliers. There is nothing wrong with that. All we want is for watch companies to respect the consumers who actually care what movements are in their watches, and not create a difficult-to-remedy situation where consumers feel misled. Now, get back to making some great in-house or outside watches and movements.
Then again, you can spend between about ,250 - ,000 for one, so the price range is large (but most are in the ,250 to roughly ,500 range). Next year, Bulova is even going to expand the Percheron collection with a slightly larger size and additional complication. If you are looking for a modern timepiece with some character and get bored of traditional designs, then I recommend taking a look at one. They all have Swiss automatic mechanical movements (Sellita SW200s I believe).
At 46mm wide and relatively thick, there is perhaps little that can take away from the masculinity of the Bovet Recital 16. Even with the large size, the curved lugs ensure a very pleasant fit on the wrist, that never feels loose or obnoxiously large. 46mm wide is one of those sizes that can make a watch look much too large on most wrists, or absolutely appropriate, depending on the shape of the case. Note the rounded blue sapphire crystal as the cabochon in the crown (most commonly seen in Cartier watches).
For 2015, Graham watches releases a new "Geo.Graham" watch which is part of their higher-end collection of classic timepieces. We first saw Geo.Graham watches back in 2012 with the release of Geo.Graham The Moon watch. These watches are more directly inspired by the classic work of watchmaker George Graham, whom the company is based on - even though he was British and Graham today is Swiss. The simply named Geo.Graham Tourbillon is a refined dress watch with a clear luxury position, but not at all pretentious. Of course, that should be tempered with the fact that tourbillons are like the chrome-plating of the luxury watch world - they add visual excitement and technical enhancements, but don't really add to a timepiece's ability to accurately tell the time. Nevertheless, in a dress watch like this, it is hard to say no to a tourbillon when it looks this cool.
Beyond stunning figures, the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime features a very new, and we should say unexpected, novelty from Patek: a swiveling case. Much like some of the most highly complicated pocket watches of the manufacture, the "GMC" can only manage to display all related information of its numerous complications on not one, but two dials. The heavily engraved 18k rose gold case – which is composed of 214 parts in itself – is suspended between similarly lavishly decorated lugs, and the case can be rotated on the longitudinal axis, allowing the owner to be able to wear the watch with either of the two dials facing up – without having to swap the straps, as seen on some other "two-faced" watches. The idea is to allow the wearer to have either side of the case be the "front."
One of the oddest parts of this watch has nothing to do with the design but rather the name. There are times that IWC has referred to the Portuguese as the Portugieser internally - but I don't recall actually seeing it as being part of the official name of any of their products. For whatever reason, IWC has decided to call this watch the "Portugieser Annual Calendar," versus the more logical "Portuguese Annual Calendar," which would fit more into the rest of the naming of the Portuguese collection. I am sure there is a reason for this, but it is currently a bit of a mystery. Personally, I believe this might be perhaps a mistake, and eventually, the watch will be corrected to be called the Portuguese Annual Calendar - we will see.
It is interesting to see the 13mm thick nut-style case, which mixes a sense of industrial refinement with a familiar shape. The case is in polished and brushed titanium or in black coated titanium and 49.6mm wide at its widest point and 43mm wide when measured from flat area to flat area. A look around the periphery of the dial allows you to see the nut-style screw threading which has been faithfully reproduced on the flange ring around the watch face. Even the crown is a matching hex nut. Given the inherent flexibility of the design, there are, of course, various versions of the Greco Hexagonal Nut timepiece available.
What you see here is a look that for a while now has been synonymous with Roger Dubuis: a large, round case with triple-lug design, a notched bezel and - the party-piece - an excessively skeletonized movement that makes any and all dials completely redundant. Gears, wheels, springs, cams, bridges, jewels, and other structural elements of the movement are exposed as much as possible, in a vast effort to create some serious eye-candy for the watch enthusiast – the kind not turned off by an arguably more flashy design. Making its debut at SIHH 2015 is a new piece that carries on this tradition, with a different approach: the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Automatic Skeleton, the first watch of this kind that does away with the tourbillon and offers this avant-garde aesthetic without the tourbillon's hefty pricing premium.
Jorg Hysek is one of my favorite watch designers. In addition to designing some really iconic watches over the last 30 years, Hysek is among the few designers today so strictly focused on the future while respecting those things that make the Swiss watch industry unique and traditional. Jorg Hysek even had his own "Hysek" brand, even though it was sold years ago and he is no longer associated with it. He then went on to start HD3 and later Slyde (hands-on review here) - an electronic luxury watch that was admittedly ahead of its time, which if begun today might have had a totally different trajectory. Jorg is now focused on the emerging world of smartwatches with the idea that real luxury smartwatches will not come from one source, but will be the accumulated efforts of multiple parties. More specifically, he feels that technology companies should work with Swiss designers and case/bracelet/strap manufacturers, and for the Swiss to not fear this new era of connected digital luxury watches.
But there’s good news for rank-and-file watch enthusiasts. Despite the growing gulf between mortal budgets and market-acknowledged “classic” watches, the late model preowned watch market offers as much variety, quality, and satisfaction as the vintage scene.
Like Vintage Ferraris, Some Horses Have "Left The Barn..."
As I mentioned at the start, many new brands try to hide where the movement is sourced from. Not so with Sjöö Sandström. For the Sjöö Sandström Royal Capital, they are utilizing a movement from Swiss firm Vaucher, the caliber 5401. Other than this being a unique Swedish-Swiss collaboration, there is another great feature of this movement – it features a micro-rotor.
ABTW: Do you serve mostly locals or tourists, or is it a good mix? Also, what percentage of your customers would you call "knowledgeable watch collectors?"
It is funny to think that with the materials and design of these Junghans Force Mega Solar watches, you would be hard-pressed to know that these were quartz watches. Well, aside from that LCD date display, of course. Many times, when we talk about atomic-solar watches, they are very much in the rugged/outdoors/chock-full-of-plastic category. Here, Junghans has gone in a much more reserved direction, with a few sportier models mixed in – but no plastic in sight.
Leeds & Son: Leeds & Son has a high percentage of collectors, and our clients come from all over the world. Because we have experts able to evaluate our client’s inventory, we are able to offer a very strong trade-in opportunity.
The Giuliano Mazzuoli Carrara is no exception and of course the polished marble case is going to be the most impressive material used. Having said that, I don't think it stops there. Giuliano Mazzuoli does a pretty nice job for the rest of the watch parts, including the dial and hour markers, as well as the strap and crown. There is a highly refined aura to the overall look and feel which combines an almost Bauhaus sense of minimalism with an indisputably Italian sense of panache. Take, for example, the material used for the dials, which is ceramic.
Contrasting strongly against the patterns seen on the bridges underneath it, but matching the black dial's decoration perfectly is the rotor's wave pattern, which – although executed in a different, more flat looking way – is the same Côte du Jura pattern displayed on the front of the watch. I consider this to be a welcome detail that implies thoughtful design, as the movement and the dial are linked in their design.
Welcome back to an aBlogtoWatch original series, where we discuss important stores that sell watches all over the world. Each store we profile has an interesting story to tell about where they operate and who they sell to. Whether you buy watches from brick and mortar retailers or prefer to buy watches online, these are the stores that help shape our watch culture around the globe. There is a long list of stores to cover, but if there is a retail location in your favorite city that we simply can’t miss, let us know in the comments below.